Sunday, December 10, 2017

CAI’s India, Senegal, Mali, Bangladesh / Phoot! Is Out.


CAI’s India, Senegal, Mali, Bangladesh
Sayed Kaneez Fizza is the clerk who handles all the CAI project compliance paperwork for India. She is a typical Mumbayte of UP origin, complete with the education and mindset of an urbanite Indian upbringing, including the omnipotent head-wag, which can mean yes, no, maybe or I don’t know. So it is not the easiest task to read her mind in the best of my days. She finds me sitting in my comfortable red t-shirt, and a hand shoots up to her mouth in shock and dismay.

‘Sir, you are wearing red! It is not Rabi’ al-awwal nine as yet, no?’

I wreck my brains to solve the complicated formula between wearing red and the 9th day of the month after Safar. Bingo! Kaneez is appalled and upset that I choose to wear anything other than black before the ‘official’ mourning period in the subcontinent ends. I sigh, mumble an illegible response and let it go. I am severely jetlagged, and a rational, well-thought response will only hurt my head. I have an early morning flight to catch to smog and pollution shrouded New Delhi tomorrow and will need all my strength and wits to survive the next few days.

Later in the day, I listen to some online religious lectures, to atone for being caught not wearing black. I also can’t sleep, due to the jetlag from flying in from Florida to Mumbai. The first lecture elevates my blood pressure to heights yet inexperienced. The vocal guy, bless him, yells that I must join my salutation to the Prophet (s) in a proper manner. It is insufficient to say Allahuma sale alaa Muhammed, Waa ale Muhammed. Nor Sir, that is an affront to the aal (s) of the Prophet (a). So, I must say Allahuma sale alaa Muhammed waa ale Muhammed, all in the same breath. Here we are, the world is a frightening mayhem, ready to make mincemeat of us Muslims, and this dude has the time and energy to come up with this apparently concocted nonsense. I quickly swallow a dose of medication to lower my BP – just in case. 

I try and listen to another online lecture. This one is even more baffling. The guy is shrouded in a heavy black cloak from the throat all the way to his feet. And dons a sheep wool kofia that I have seen Afghans wear in the middle of winter. He is complaining to the crowds that he feels super warm; is the air conditioner not working? Can the whirling fans be speeded up? He repeats this complaint quite a few times. I wish I were there, in London, where I could advise him, politely, to perhaps wear a less elaborate kurta shalwar next time? But alas, I am in Mumbai. I still listen to him, since he is quite popular with many; I want to understand why. Perhaps he can impress me equally? He veers off from his chosen subject matter no less than three times in the next fifteen minutes, comes back and tells the crowd Yeh meraa mouzuu nahee hai, magar… Gee, I really wish I am there, in London, where I could suggest, very politely, that he stay on mouzuu? I stop watching and try sleeping instead. Should I be surprised at the apathy and confusion in our college-going children with this kind of gobbledygook from the pulpit?

This current trip takes me from Sanford, Florida to Mumbai. I take a redeye from Mumbai to New Delhi the next day and then drive to Sirsi in UP, joined by my Guru in India, Aliakber Ratansi. The SGH orphanage construction is coming up very well, CAI should be able to officially open the modern facility to 50 odd orphan girls in May 2018 and afford them a quality education insha’Allah. Then on to Halwaana where CAI is constructing a school for 600 non-going children living as poor farmer’s kids in a cluster of sadaat villages on the banks of the river Yamuna. From there we visit an already constructed school in Sikanderpur, a surprise inspection of sorts. We travel on terrible roads over three days at maddening speeds that takes a heavy toll on my sleeping pattern, already in disarray from the jetlag.  The only bright experience is a hot, fiery mutton biryani breakfast at a roadside dhabba that is unbelievably divine. Doesn’t do my guts any good but my tongue has a mind of its own, so I have two helpings. Burp. Lulls’ me to sleep later on in a jerking vehicle.

I have a day’s rest on return to Mumbai before a 12-hour flight to Dakar via Dubai and Conakry. I am joined here by fellow Trustee Sohail Abdullah from NY, CAI Africa representative Murtaza Bhimani and well-wisher Mushtaq Fazal from Dar es Salaam. And we are off yet again, an almost 13-hour drive to Kolda where CAI has constructed a school and soon will be starting another small school in a deprived village. Insha’Allah. Apart from one of us forgetting a bag full of money and passports at a roadside cafĂ© and battling determined mosquitos, we survive the 3-day 30 hours’ drive in one piece and return to Dakar for our flight to Bamako, Mali the next day. Thanks to our partner Mouhammad Aidara and his reach in the country, the money and passports are safeguarded and returned to the relieved owners on our return to Dakar.

CAI has just completed the construction of a school in Bamako, Mali and its inspection is our goal – all is well. Our next stop is a rickety shabby elementary school about a two-hour drive from Bamako. This school has about 350 exceedingly poor students who have no future past grade 9. The sight of these children, all willing to give it their best in very trying circumstances, tug at our hearts. CAI will look into constructing a three-classroom high school unit shortly insha’Allah. After arranging a protein-rich feast for the starved children in honor of the birthday of our Prophet (S) for the next day, we rush to Bamako; our hosts are not too thrilled for us to be in the boonies as dusk approaches. Mali has been rocked with violence from radicals, and Aidara wants to take no chances with foreigners so far away from the city proper.

I must add that the arrangements by Mouhammad Aidara, CEO and founder of Mozdahir, in all the West African countries that CAI is active in providing quality education to deprived children, has been exemplary. He commands awe and respect, not only from his disciples across W. Africa, but also from the various governments and heads of States, even, for his services. CAI is much indebted to him and the rest of the staff at Mozdahir.

CAI will, insha’Allah, continue with providing educational opportunities to the marginalized children in the whole of W. Africa. The plan is to construct an elementary school in every location that lacks one. Next stop, the country of Benin. Insha’Allah.

I return to Mumbai after a day’s transit in Dakar once more before heading out to Dhaka and Cox’s Bazaar in Bangladesh, where I officially declare a makeshift school for 140 Rohingya orphans open. We hope we can dry their tears, stabilize their emotions and perhaps, in a small way, rekindle hope in humanity and compassion, something that their own countrymen have decided to forsake.

I urge you to see several photos of this trip here.

Phoot! Is Now Available!
This novel, my third, is now out and available for US $100 delivered globally. All proceeds – 100% - will help over 550 worldwide orphans that CAI supports and educates.

You can read an excerpt of Phoot! here. You can purchase it here. Please help us help the orphans become educated, dignified, balanced and upright human beings. This will be an everlasting, lifelong gift to them. Allah bless.



Thursday, November 23, 2017

CAI – Nothing Is Impossible! / Phoot! Is Out.


CAI – Nothing Is Impossible!
My late brother Mohammed Raza (Bha) loved to support charitable causes and was a pioneer in encouraging and funding CAI activities. He was a firm believer that his life was incomplete if his assets, however meager, were not shared by the less fortunate. This was the underlying paradigm mindset change in me that made the founding of Comfort Aid International (CAI) possible.

It is only when I move out of Tanzania and begin traveling that I start to understand what Bha means. With the education opportunities gifted to me by others and the resulting job and travels, my eyes and mind open to how very fortunate I am. Exposed to the poverty in India and beyond subsequently, the worldwide survivors of wars and famine and ethnic or religious cleansing, I learn, the very hard and emotional way, what life is like for the people on the other side. And how very fortunate I am to eat whatever I desire and whenever I want, to live in a comfortable home and sleep in a bed while flipping through cable TV channels while the AC vents blow cool air towards my blanketed torso. My children go to some of the best schools’ money can buy, wear trendy clothes and are chauffeured to places for sport and entertainment. While right in front of me, a widow tells me she has to save for two months so that her son can have the new uniform demanded by the school. I meet children, barely adolescents, toiling over sweatshops or farming fields for a pittance. I know then, I know, what Bha means. And my calling is cemented.

I am determined, absolutely unwavering in the firm belief that I will never take my life and fortunes for granted. Ever. Allah grants me, and us of course, bounties as tests. For certainly, I can easily be the child on the other side, son to the mother whose forehead is burrowed with the pain of worry or the infant with eyes that are blank with the agony of seeing a parent murdered or mother or sister raped or home burnt down. I am nobody to question Allah’s decree. Why has He granted me so many bounties, while right in front of my eyes, I see the most wretched of the wretched? I do not know, nor do I want to ponder it over. All I know is that there is an opportunity here, to be upright and try to make the furrows of the mothers less deep, or to see a young widow economically independent so she does not have to sell herself or to see children in crisp uniforms hop and skip to school, a smile on their faces.

From humble beginnings in 1996, when I encounter Sakina Rizvi (read her compelling story) in the slums of Govandi, Mumbai, India, CAI is born. With the unwavering financial and moral support from Bha, who extends a helping hand in rescuing Sakina and her brother from the gutters of the slums, CAI achievements are, alhamd’Allah, nothing but a miracle surely. Nothing is impossible!

On any given day:
- Over 14,000 poor students get a quality education at one of 34 CAI sponsored schools worldwide.
- About 600 destitute people, some who have yet to see a medical doctor, get medical attention and medicines at a modern medical clinic for less than 50 US cents. Or deliver a baby in a safe sterile environment with a qualified medical midwife at hand.
- Over 300,000 people get potable water from CAI sponsored water wells and water distribution systems worldwide
- Over 500 orphans get their needs fulfilled, including the opportunity at an extraordinary quality education in 10 orphanages that CAI has helped sponsor worldwide.

And:
- CAI sponsored homes shelter over 950 homeless families worldwide.
- CAI sponsors over US$250,000/year in basic education for poor children.
- CAI sponsors over $50,000/year in higher education scholarships to deserving students with qualifying grades.
- CAI has assisted in the marriage of over 2,800 poor girls so they can escape the scourge of dowry.
- CAI assists in lifesaver medical cases to the tune of US$100,000 per year. 
CAI has liberated over 600 widows from begging for food by training them in a skill or by providing them animal husbandry alternatives.
- CAI provides ready assistance to victims of natural disasters, wars or other calamities – whenever and wherever called upon, worldwide, from natural disasters in Haiti to the ethnic cleansing in Myanmar.
- CAI helps feed over 25,000 poor and destitute families every year, at least for a month.
- And the mission continues… In partnership with other NGO’s like Beta Charitable Trust in the UK, IHS in Canada, OCT in the UK, Al Imaan in India and others, CAI is ever ready to lend a hand of comfort and compassion.
- All for the love of our Creator who gifts us with ample tests and opportunities.

Phoot! Is Now Available!
You may already know CAI takes care for the wellbeing of over 500 orphans worldwide, now that 100 new ones from the Rohingya refugees rotting in Cox’s Bazar, Bangladesh have been added to the expanding roster. They are fed, clothed, treated if ill, but most importantly, they get an opportunity for a quality education. The recourses for all this comes from people like you – Allah bless.

You may not be a book lover, perhaps not read fiction, not like my writing or not like me, even. All taken in stride. This novel, my third, Phoot! is a personal gift towards the education of these orphans. All proceeds, 100%, support the cost of their education, I keep not a penny for gain. I am hoping CAI can raise US$100,000, enough funds to support over 100 orphans annually. The print version is now available.

So please consider supporting the cause. You can read it, you may actually like it insha’Allah, or gift it, or add it to your collections of books. You will definitely be investing in a very valuable cause, one that Allah repeatedly commands me and you to do in His holy book. The Prophet (s) too, has encouraged us to take care of orphans, promising a close place to him in Janna. There is no better care than educating one, I promise. I state this from 19 years of experience working with and educating orphans. It is a paramount sawaab e jaaria; the benefits do not cease. 

You can read an excerpt of Phoot! here. The cost for a printed version is US$100, delivered worldwide; equal to one or two dinners with your family. You can purchase it here.

Thursday, November 9, 2017

Speak Not, They Are Our Fallible Ulemas! / About Phoot!

Speak Not, They Are Our Fallible Ulemas!
I am at my home office in Sanford, FL, at peace with the world for a change. The air outside is a crisp 48F; I am shivering when I drop Maaha Zainab at her high school at seven, when the sky is a deep ebony. Imagine! I wish we’d stop tinkering around with the daylight savings nonsense and let nature be nature; seven o’clock is supposed to be light and chirpy.

So, I am minding my own business, enjoying a Dubai style Malabari paratha, now available frozen with the same-to-same texture and taste, with a steaming cup of karak Wah Bakri chai when an email from a highly charged and emotional Blog reader pops up, blasting me for criticizing a ‘respectable’ aalim for consuming a cancer stick. The email rocks with anger and indignance, railing against my alleged arrogance. Who, he lambasts, am I to criticize an ‘aalim’, even one who smokes? Would I do the same to A. Khui (r) who was an avid and a chain smoker?

There goes my day. And I thought I might have a tranquil one, take a nap, go for my routine run and then catch up with so many trivial tasks I have shelved due to a hectic CAI related travel schedule. Especially now that my third novel Phoot! is at the printers and will be out in about a month. More on Phoot! later.

Reactions to my Blogs are frequent, overwhelmingly favorable, but some, like this, are irritants. I usually ignore them. With circa 5,000 followers, I can’t possibly be synced with everybody’s mindset. And that’s okay.  But this dude has touched a raw nerve, one that rubs me bad. That a person who sits on a mimbar, representing the Prophet (a), the Aimaas (a), no less, and then does something that is reprehensible is bad enough. What is worse is the acceptance by the masses of such behavior. This zaakir, bless him, is a fairly good reciter, he can emotionally rouse the crowds. But, he smokes. Like a chimney. Which is bad. Period.

One would be a lunatic to believe that smoking and or vaping anything other than Allah gifted clean air is WRONG. Ethically and medically, and especially when the culprit is supposed to be a representative of an infallible. It is of no consequence if the offender is a zaakir or a marja. Perhaps A. Khui (r) did not have the information and damning data about smoking during his lifetime and would have chosen not to indulge; I don’t know.

The bigger picture about faith is that we regard everybody and anybody sitting on the pulpit as an infallible. It simply ain’t so, and this paradigm must change! Yes, they have spent years studying about Islam and may have the prerequisites to sit on the mimbar and enlighten us about the madhab. They - most of them, since some are outright nitwits and know not what they speak - should be respected, admired even, only if they use the acquired knowledge with intellect and decorum fit for the mimbar. But if they indulge in things that are obviously and intellectually wrong, why, then they should be advised otherwise.

So, Mr. Indignant, my brother in humanity and Islam, may Allah bless you. Calm down and please don’t get your chuddies in an uncomfortable twist, you’ll burst a vein boore. We have so much pain and turbulence in our world already, no? Let us agree to disagree? If you didn’t like what I have written and are obviously offended, I’m honestly sorry; I even said so as a disclaimer in the Blog. And if my Blogs still cause you so much heartburn, please unsubscribe. It’ll sadden me that you will not continue to be intellectually challenged and enlightened by my offerings, but that’s a burden I am ready and willing to bear. Only for your wellbeing and happiness.

Perhaps I’ll postpone my run today. Praying behind the Sheykh at the stunningly beautiful but sometimes dysfunctional Masjid al Hayy has the same benefits. Almost. The good Sheykh’s salaats are fasta-fasta, they accelerate the heartbeats and makes me break into a sweat.

About Phoot!
You may already know CAI cares for the wellbeing of about 500 orphans worldwide, now that 100 fresh new ones from the Rohingya refugees rotting in Cox’s Bazar, Bangladesh have been added to the expanding roster. They are fed, clothed, treated if ill, but most importantly, they get an opportunity for a quality education. The recourses for all this comes from people like you – Allah bless.

You may not be a book lover, perhaps not read fiction, not like my writing or not like me, even. All taken in stride. This novel, my third, Phoot! is a personal gift towards the education of these orphans. All proceeds, 100%, support the cost of their education, I keep not a penny for gain. I am hoping CAI can raise US$100,000, enough funds to support over 100 orphans annually.

So please consider supporting the cause. You can read it, you may actually like it insha’Allah, or gift it, or add it to your collections of books. You will definitely be investing in a very valuable cause, one that Allah repeatedly commands you and me to do in His holy book. The Prophet (s) too, has encouraged us to take care of orphans, promising a close place to him in Janna. There is no better care than educating one, I promise. I state this from 19 years of experience working with and educating orphans. It is a paramount sawaab e jaaria; the benefits do not cease. 

You can read an excerpt of Phoot! here. The cost for a printed version is US$100, delivered worldwide; equal to one or two dinners with your family. You can purchase it here.

FYI, the total cost for supporting an orphan, including a quality education is US$86 / month. The $100,000 raised from selling these books will take care of 20% of the total annual cost for caring for these orphans.

Saturday, October 28, 2017

Amongst The Rohingya Refugees – Nasser Jetha / Afghanistan Photo Blog / Phoot!

Amongst The Rohingya Refugees – Nasser Jetha
We have all been witnessing the immense cruelty and ensuing tragedy meted towards the Rohingyas in Myanmar (Burma). One persistent question haunts my mind. How can I help?

Emotionally affected by the pictures sent by Yusufali of his recent trip to the refugee camp at Cox’s Bazar in Bangladesh, I knew, without a second thought, I wanted to accompany him on his next trip there, which was in about three weeks from then.

Being the go-getter that he is, with Yusufali there is no time to think or dilly-dally: you are either in or out; time is precious. The awaited five days trip is happening. And so here I am on the EK582 flight to Dhaka from Dubai, a city I have never been to before.

It is incredible how fate connects us to other people and even more amazing that we are heading for the same purpose. Just before boarding, I meet Sohail and Abbas - the two indispensable CAI Trustees doing all the hard work with Yusufali. I could tell that they are from the US with their typical Gringo accents, especially Sohail.

Traffic in Dhaka is insane, with rickshaws maneuvering around, the sounds of horns, people standing on top of moving trains and even a poor mother holding puke from her little boy and throwing it from the window of an overcrowded bus... It all feels surreal for newcomers. Luckily, having had the taste of Mumbai’s insanity before, this was not too much of a surprise to me.

When Yusufali joins us later at the hotel in Dhaka, the energy level suddenly changed; it's like you could feel the presence of the BIG BOSS, in a positive way of course... After a good brief, on the status and trip ahead, we depart for Cox’s Bazar the next day.

Cox’s Bazar is a small city about an hour’s drive from the Rohingya refugee camp. The Seyeman Beach Resort is packed with aid workers, holidaymakers and .... honeymooners!?! (Umm... no comment here). After a few hiccups about our reservations in a busy and noisy reception area, we land up in an ocean view two-bedroom suite. With this fantastic view, no wonder love birds are coming to this popular hotel (mystery solved).

Over lunch we discuss our plans with the local representatives’ CAI is working with, in Bangladesh. I must say Bangladeshis love to eat... fresh fried pomfret fish and some local ladyfish; Sohail can’t resist. On our way to the camp, Abbas needs his dose of coconut water with malai. It seems like my new US buddies are food lovers and persistent on their taste buds.

It has rained heavily the night before, so the roads are muddy and flooded at places. As we carefully mind our steps, suddenly, we see a mass of Rohingya refugees; they are everywhere, mainly women and children. The empty look in the eyes of almost all the children keeps piercing at my heart. I am to discover later these kids are physiologically affected by the gruesome violence of rape, killing, destruction, and fire that gripped their brethren as they fled the mauling Burmese Army. When will this stop?

The rain adds more misery to the refugees existing poor squalor conditions. Children of every age, mothers carrying their little ones, walk barefoot in the sludge. The camp is so big, so I don't know where to look; so many children, so much pain.... Amidst this misery, I see few kids trying to forget their gloom by playing soccer in a soggy rice field, using plastic bags as kites or makeshift toys - plastic bottle with wheels as a toy car - some kids follow us.

Alhamdulillah, there are many well-known international NGOs present, and with the help of the very well disciplined and professional Bangladeshi army, there is now a sense of structured chaos. I take a few pictures of some children and show it to them; at first, they were shy, but then you see them smile. Perhaps it is the first time they see a picture of themselves? Or seeing them after a very long time? May Allah bless them soon with a bright future!

We have our gumboots on, but all the refugees walk barefoot.  With the whole experience, realization hits me... how privileged am I!!?! By the end of the five-day trip, I will be back to my comfortable life! I will be affected for a while, but, yet again, once I am back into my daily regimen, these memories will blur! I always forget to count my blessings! What about the refugees? After all, they are also humans! How long will the pain and test last? How much more do they have to endure!?

I feel out of sync... for the next few days, thinking about all these people, especially the poor innocent boys and girls. Some faces have left an impact on me. I can’t get Muhammad Umar out of my mind; the boy maybe six years old but is my guide in the camp and follows me all the time, and this toddler smiling at me with an eye infection. I try to play with him, and all I could think of is my daughter back in Dubai. She is almost the same age...

I ask Allah why this is happening? Why?

And a hadith of the Holy Prophet (s) sways in my mind “It may happen that a servant of Allah gives a loaf of bread in Charity, but it turns out to be great as Mount Uhud to Allah.” Perhaps this test will propel these wretched people to a better tomorrow? Insha’Allah, CAI will be building a few deep-water wells and a makeshift school for 100 orphans.  To give them a purpose in life, and not to dwell on their ordeals, teach them basic hygiene, education and a shot at a decent future.


I can only hope and pray.

You can view photos and videos of my visit.

Afghanistan Photo Blog
Please view wonderful photos and videos by Trustee Sohail Abdullah of our most recent visit to Afghanistan. CAI officially commissioned two brand new medical clinics in remote areas of Kitty and Ahangar in Dykundy Province. 

Phoot!
My new novel Phoot! will be available by November 30, 2017, insha'Allah. All proceeds, 100%, will benefit over 500 CAI worldwide orphans in their quest for an excellent education. Please preorder a copy at US$100 each here. Delivered worldwide. Only 228 print copies left. You can read excerpts here. Allah bless.

Thursday, October 12, 2017

Ashoora Eve At Kasar Bagh - A Distributing Ritual

Ashoora Eve At Kasar Bagh - A Distributing Ritual
Back in India, it takes me almost two days to calm down and begin eating normally, after my highly emotional, haunting and turbulent visit with the Rohingya refugees rotting at the squalor camps in Cox’s Bazar, Bangladesh. Since I have been away almost all active nights of Muharram, I am eager to pay my respects to the Shuhada (a), so I head to Mumbai’s Pala Ghali, where there are Ashoora eve programs I can partake in.

The Khoja mosque, very warm and steamy, is almost packed just before magreeb; I am drenched in sweat by the end of magreeb salaat. A lecture majlis ends, and another begins; this tribute will continue throughout the night. I leave to meet up with my Indian guru Aliakber Ratansi, who is on duty serving water and hamburgers arranged by his Anjuman. Pala Ghali is shrouded in black stalls lining the entire street, each booth offering a variety of tabarruk sponsored by separate anjumans to the mourners. There are hamburgers, fiery pulao and haleem in disposable containers, super sweet milk sherbet, water in plastic cups…

It has rained earlier, so the streets are wet, slippery and filthy. Aliakber Ratansi is busy dispensing water at his stall, with yet another majlis streaming from a loud TV nearby. The reciter is cautioning his audience about Imam Ali’s (a) advice on applying intellect in life, including the mourning process for his beloved. Paradoxically, the streets are littered with plastic water cups, food containers, snack wrappings and casually discarded leftover pulao and haleem; I cringe at the mess and tread cautiously. The overwhelming diehard mourners, who are barefoot, are undeterred however, and walk about nonchalantly.

Since I am hungry, I wolf down a hamburger and some pulao, using my fingers – no cutlery here – and piping hot chai to wash down all the grease. The pulao is fiery, so I give up midway. The tempo of people, allams and taazias pick up, and Pala Ghali is a struggle to navigate after 9 PM. Aliakber and I battle to walk the short distance to Kasar Bagh, to witness the cumulation of all juloos marches of greater Mumbai.

Whoa, the sight at Kasar Bagh is surreal. The lane leading to the place is a sea of black and even the police, who have a proper security bandobast in place, seem to struggle, blowing their whistles and flailing their arms, as if that will get the uncaring crowds to listen up or disperse. There are, I reckon, over 100,000 people in the vicinity where I am, all jostling for very little space. We make it inside after a struggle. It’s not so bad here, people sitting, eating, smoking, chatting... I observe many Bohris with their traditional kofia, some Sunni wearing color and a sprinkling of Hindus as well.

If the vista outside is weird, the inside of Kasar Bagh becomes utterly bizarre once the juloos begin trickling in. With shouts of Labaik Ya Hussein, the crowds throng in, armed with an armada of allams and taazias, some colorful and tall, others draped in black, but imposing nevertheless. I try and keep track, but lose count after reaching the 200-odd mark. Then comes the impossibly tall, imposing, majestic and dignified allam of Kamar-e-Bani Hashem, Abbas, the Ghaazi of Zainab, and the crowds go wild; my heart contracts in pain and pride.

The reciter, a popular zaakir arrives, people make way. He eventually sits next to me, snacks on a quick soggy sandwich, gulps coffee and lights up a cancer stick. He puffs away like there is no tomorrow, sullying the already tainted blood and sweat filled air I am forced to breathe. A fine leadership example for our impressionable teenagers to emulate, no? He enters the hall to shouts of Labaik Ya Hussein and begins his lecture, stirring up the crowds with an inspirational devotion to the single most core personality that unites the Shia world – Imam Hussein (a) and his supreme sacrifice in Karbala. Labaik Ya Hussein roars 10,000 voices in unison, shaking the very grounds of Kasar Bagh. Such is the stirred-up emotion that my eyes tear, and I, too, am caught up in a frenzied raising of my fist in tribute to our great Imam (a). The lecture on atrocities towards the Ahlebeyt (a) riles up pent-up passion; the crowds want no more talking. Drumbeats thump and cymbal clangs and the gyrating begins.

Round and round the allams and taazias go, picking up in a frenzy. I think it is impossible that more people can enter the hall, but they do and join the circling of the allams. I am unsure why the crowds' circle, but they do, accompanied by the deafening thump of the drums. A terrified zuljana horse, his eyes large, rolling in fear, draped in bloodied clothes, is ushered in and joins in the rotation; people touch him and then kiss their fingers reverently. Hundreds of oud urns bellow clouds of pleasant smelling smoke that shroud the circling crowds. At some point of this ritual, the atmosphere of mourning dissipates, and it feels like a festival of sorts, not unlike the circling of the dragon in some Far East country. Over the roar of ruckus, I ask Aliakber Ratansi about the drums, since I feel like I am in a celebratory Hindu carnival of sorts and not in a somber tribute. He shrugs his shoulders and looks up to the heavens in apparent resignation. Hatele Iranians, he quips.

Kasar Bagh has a legal capacity to hold about 3,000 people; I am certain there are nearly 10,000 plus at some point. A miracle really, considering there are no severe injuries or stampede deaths in all these years. There was a stampede at a local train station just yesterday, killing 23 people, so I am very wary of the throngs that keep on pouring in. Youngsters mostly, wearing white (I wonder why?) enter, brandishing malicious chains and knives and disappear into the crowds. They return a short while later, drenched in blood, swooning, propped up by friends and volunteers. Recovering rather quickly after some water or sherbet, few get busy taking selfies of their bloodied torso with friends, and dispatching them onwards with amazing speed with nimble fingers on smartphones to the airwaves. I want to go in and take some photos of the gore but am scared silly of the crowds and flaying weapons, so stay put.

In the peripheral, some people do maatam in tune with the beating of the drums. An infant tries to imitate his father beating his chest, but lands on his diaper cushioned butt instead. Undeterred and resilient, he picks himself up and repeats the torment. Bless him. I tire at about 1 AM and take a very hard to find a taxi back to the Leela. Mumbaikars have finally tired and are off the otherwise choked streets so the pan-guzzling, continually stopping to spit taxi driver completes the trip in 1/3 of the usual time.

The visit to Kasar Bagh leaves me unsettled, empty, as if I have unfinished business; my heart still burns. Do these rituals fulfill the Imam’s (a) mission? Have I lost the opportunity to reflect, contemplate and develop a source of inspiration towards transformation and reformation in my daily life and behavior, taking lessons from the great mission of Imam Hussain (a)? It is only after I attend a more dignified and much more somber Shaam-e-Ghareeba event at Zeb Palace the next eve, offer my sympathy, sorrow and tears to the mazlooms (a) of Karbala that my heart senses some tranquility.

Note: I taunt, blame, condescend or judge not the events at Kasar Bagh; I am unqualified for that. I am merely relating, without malice, my experience that Ashoor eve. Any feeling of hurt is deeply regretted.

My New Novel
Remember, my third novel is ready, and a limited print version will be available immediately after Moharram / Saffer, 1439. All proceeds, 100%, will benefit about 460 CAI worldwide orphans in their quest for excellent education. Only 329 copies of 500 printed version remain.

You can read an excerpt of the novel by clicking here.

Please preorder a copy at US$100 each here. Delivered worldwide. Allah bless.